Philippines at last

It’s been too long that I’ve skirted around Borneo with vague promises that some day it would really be worth the effort to visit. It is the third largest Island on the planet, it’s also just about the biggest area of virgin rainforest left today. There aren’t many places that have escaped the rapid deforestation and overdevelopment of our demanding modern world. The Amazon may well be larger, but in truth there isn’t that much of it left. Supposedly, vast tracts of Borneo have been decimated, the dreaded palm oil plantations are the scourge of Asia rather than ranching, as in Brazil. The evidence was all too clear as I travelled through the rainforest of Malaysia last year. About 30% of Borneo (Sarawak & Sabah) is actually Malaysian territory, so I’m not expecting miracles there. The majority (Kalimantan) belongs to Indonesia, it has suffered deforestation to some extent but as there is virtually no transport infrastructure I’m hoping the effects are minimal. (Photo: Goods friends playing at a street party in Bristol)

Before I even get close to Borneo I’ve got a while in the Philippines, which is another country I’ve only heard good reports about. The only dodgy stories have all been centred on Manila, the capital. Metro Manila is huge, a conglomeration of twelve cities rolled into one immense metropolis. Not that it matters, like anywhere else the concern is for the locality you’re in, your destination, and how the hell to get there. The commercial area is swanky, downtown much grubbier, and the tourist hangout filled with girlie bars and hookers. Traffic density is claimed to be a real problem, but to be honest it’s nothing compared to Indian cities or the likes of Medan or Jakarta. At the moment we’re in the tail end of the monsoon season, so it’s a touch overcast and windy, luckily I’m not having to contend with torrential rain or blistering sun though. It’s only twenty-four hours since I arrived, I haven’t taken an instant dislike to the place so it must be quite good for a city. (Photo: A friendly, yet persistent, cabbie - Riverside, Manila, Philippines)

The genetic diversity amongst the Filipinos is staggering. I’d never judge a single race as ‘all looking the same’, but even the least observant racist could easily differentiate between individuals here.  A tendency to be on the short side, have dark hair and olive skin is where the similarity stops. On the flight here almost all the females (Filipinas) were a bit on the plump size, in fact so were the guys. Having been under the impression that the Philippines were filled with hoards of raging beauties I was slightly surprised. Once in the city my attitude changed, it must have been a poor example of the population, a selection of the better off sector of society. There are actually plenty of very slim, well-proportioned citizens (I have to admit it was mainly the women I noticed). Whatever they look like they are a wonderfully friendly people, welcoming smiles abound. I’ve yet to find anyone who doesn’t speak English, many even speak it amongst themselves. (Photo: She was not amused, at least he wasn't trying to sell her - Riverside, Manila)

My first night was spent getting hammered in a bar, it wasn’t my intention but I was a willing participant. I found a bar open to the street for a beer or two, a pleasant way to spend an hour watching the world go by. It also made me a prime target for the hawkers, hustlers and beggars. Not least were to large numbers of young women vying for the attention of every western male. Though tempted to refer to them as street girls, it would be doing many of them an injustice. Like many locations of sex tourism it isn’t necessarily a matter of sex for money. The average girl approaching you is actually after a sugar daddy, those who practice the traditional form of prostitution don’t tend to waste time, they’re much more to the point, time is money after all. I ended up chatting to a few of the treasure hunters, once making the situation perfectly clear, that I wasn’t on the market for girls. I expected them to renege on the understanding, but they honoured it, even when I got up and staggered off. (Photo: I was impressed by a team cleaning the promenade, despite being soaked - Riverside, Manila)

It was an interesting encounter, where I asked many personal questions and received open and honest answers in return. Of the women I spoke to none liked to see old, fat, ugly westerners toting gorgeous young girls on their arms. They were more discerning, and the most outspoken of them insisted she would not even try and chat a guy up unless she found him attractive. These were only young women looking for someone to take care of them in a world where their options were extremely limited. What made it worse for me was the encouragement, even pressure, from parents to do so. Bear in mind that once hitched the family expect to benefit from the financial security of the foreign guy as well. For all the family it’s a get out clause from the poverty they have to suffer each day. Few, if any, are from affluent families, most rely solely on what they can reap from visiting males. (Photo: Utilising whatever is available, but not really keeping dry - Malite backstreet, Manila)

So it was an interesting first experience of the country. I preferred to sit and chat to those women than have to try and fend off the probing hands of the street hookers. I only stopped to light my cigarette and I had one fondling my groin. I also found the antics of the street kids a hoot too. But enough of that, Manila hasn’t appalled me and I’ll be happy to return when the time comes. It is more expensive than other places here, so I won’t be returning unless I have to. As flights are so cheap there is nothing to stop me should I need anything in the capital. In two days time I’ll fly down to Palawan, which elicits exclamations of how beautiful it is from everyone I mention it to.

 Please excuse the less than exciting range of photos, it's hard to snap decent pics in the rain.