From a small boxed section in the Lonely Planet I first read
of the existence of the Natuna Archipelago. It claimed tourism was virtually
unheard of, the domain of only a few luxury cruise liners passing by. Lying
between the Northwest coast of Borneo and Sumatra, it is actually a province of
the Riau Islands. There are a lot of islands here, but the only one to handle
commercial flights is Natuna Besar, of which Raini is the only port of entry.
It’s possible to get here with Pelni, the main inter-island ferries throughout
Indonesia, but they only come this way every other week. As luck would have it
their timetable didn’t fit in with my schedule. With my two month visa on the
verge of running out I couldn’t afford to wait for the cheaper option, I had to
book a flight at the exorbitant price of £80 return from Pontianak, Kalimantan.
It was only ever going to be a quick trip, due to the expiry of my visa, but I couldn't resist coming here. (Photo: Rocky bay north of Raini, with Pulau Senua in the background - Natuna Besar, Natuna Archipelago)
The airport is actually a military airbase, they kindly
allow commercial access to the only landing strip in the islands. Construction of a new civilian airport is underway, but hopes aren’t high of it reaching
completion any time soon. Until coming face to face with the numerous Polisi
Militar you wouldn’t guess it’s an airbase. It’s tiny, glaringly painted, with
a row of single storey buildings to handle the sporadic flow of arrivals and
departures. With manicured lawns dotted with towering palm trees, under a
blazing sun it smacks of being a tranquil tropical paradise. Unfortunately, I wasn’t
met by pretty girls in hoola skirts, as soon as I stepped off the tarmac apron
I was greeted by a PM, who invited me to follow him. It seemed obvious than an
incoming tourist wasn’t an every day event. They were friendly enough, simply taking
my name and passport number, checking I was actually a tourist. There were less
than forty passengers, on a plane with a seating capacity of nearly two hundred.
So there was no clamour for baggage, no argy-bargy for taxis, the sort of relaxed
atmosphere you dream of on arrival at your tropical dream. 
Having tried to glean what information I could from the
Internet, I arrived completely ignorant of anything other than the name of the
Central Hotel, whose owner apparently spoke English. It was the easy option, a
starting point. As often happens, booking into the most readily available place
is simply a stopgap, giving you time to learn the lay of the land. Juli, the
owner, proved really helpful, being extremely friendly and more than a touch
generous with her time and good will. Her prices are comparable to the only
other hotel recorded in outside sources. Neither is really budget
accommodation, but they are the closest you’ll find to western standards. If
you are that way inclined, you’d need to choose between the Central and the
Natuna hotels. For convenience the Central is tops, they have internet and are only too pleased to help however possible. The Natuna is
out of town a ways, without your own transport it could be a hassle. There is
also a cluster of budget guesthouses in Raini, at less than £4 a night they’re
a good option if you don’t mind very basic accommodation. 
People are praying for a tourist boom, yet most claim a lack
of funds holds them back. People are taking the plunge though, the first
accommodation with tourists in mind is nearing completion. Alif Stone Park, a
wonderful place to visit in its own right, is located on a beautiful stretch of
coast. The unexplained deposits of huge boulders lay higgledy-piggledy in a
sandy bay, linked by inconspicuous bridges and walkways. Various theories exist
as to how they got there, they’re certainly not locally sourced. I think
they’re volcanic. Of a hard and course igneous rock, many are deeply scored,
always from top to bottom. It’s hard to imagine normal weather patterns eroding
them in this way. Does it seem plausible the striations were created by lava
raining down on newly deposited volcanic rock? Anyway, they form a natural
barrier to incoming waves, making for safe tranquil waters to play in. The
water clarity is amazing, it begs to be dived into. You can also organise
diving and snorkelling trips, or use their kayak to paddle peacefully around
the coast. Eno and his family are hoping to have a number of rooms available to
tourists this July. Check their website for details! 
I’ve come across a phenomenon of being a solo traveller that
I’ve not experienced before, or not to the same degree. With so few tourists
visiting I’m a bit of an enigma, and people go out of their way to accommodate
me. They find it hard to understand why I travel alone, as though it isn’t a
choice to do so. From their behaviour they assume it’s a great hardship, that I
could do with their help, if not their companionship. My awkwardness in
speaking Bahasa Indonesia emphasises this, they imagine I can’t conquer the
language barrier. However much I insist it’s not a problem they seem hell bent
on helping. Blimey, my Indonesian is better now than it’s ever been, and I’ve
always muddled through somehow. It is endearing in many ways, but it’s been
very hard to maintain my independence. People won’t take no for an answer, and
this stretches into the realms of causing offence or accepting their
hospitality. I’d go as far as to say it’s severely curtailed my freedom, which
seems ungrateful, but I’m not. Like never before I’ve no end of people vying for
the chance to look after my interests. 
Most friendly offers are genuine, but beware of the sharks
cruising the neighbourhood. Which makes it sound bad, and it isn’t. There are always unsavoury
characters waiting to wheedle their way into your trust on the pretence of
friendship. I won’t condemn them as conmen, many are simply trying to profit a
little at your expense. It’s still deception though, and I’m becoming worse for
being taken for a ride, rather than more hardened towards it. Hence a local
businessman has been all over me like a rash for days now, and it’s hard to
shake him without being nasty. I refuse to push everyone away, I like to be
open to experiences. But trawling karaoke joints, necking countless beers and
employing the services of hookers is not my scene. Prostitution is rife, and
surprisingly open and acceptable. Worst of all, everyone thinks there must be
something wrong with me for refusing their services. Is this the result of
having such a sexually repressed society? I can only assume it provides an easy
outlet, therefore supply increases to meet demands. 
The island is crawling with military personnel. Apparently
China has laid some claim to the territory, once vast supplies of natural gas
and oil had been found. No surprise there then! Combined with large numbers of
police in Raini, it makes for a lot of uniforms littering up the place. They
are normally restricted to Raini, though a multilateral Naval exercise is due
to take place, so the west coast is swarming with them too. Returning from
Pulau Tiga (Three Islands) the tiny dockside was pandemonium, a whole cavalcade
of the top brass arrived for a jaunt in the fanciest of RIB’s I’ve set eyes on.
Of course the big knobs turned up, got their arses licked, waltzed through the
mayhem and sailed off, regardless of the mess they left in their wake. It kept
me amused for ages watching the PM’s trying to turn round a dozen large 4WD
vehicles in a confined space. I stopped asking myself why they’d directed each
vehicle where they had, coordination didn’t come into the equation once. Let’s
hope they manage better in the actual exercise, though I wouldn’t lay odds on
it. 
Pulau Tiga isn’t just three islands, there are countless of
them scattered throughout the region. Many seem to be inhabited, there are some
real gems, the deserted islands. Strips of golden sand form a barrier between
crystal clear water and dense jungle covered hills. They make me want to pack a
boat full of supplies and head out, they’re so enticing, I’m sure I could amuse
myself for a while in isolation. Pom-pom drivers (dirty, scruffy affairs,
smelling of diesel, dishevelled and in need of maintenance – generally boat and
driver), can be found to take you wherever you desire, if the price is right.
Realistically, if you put 360,000 rupiah in their hands they’re yours for the
taking. They don’t exactly clamour for the trade though, being quite happy to
play high stakes dominoes instead. Wait until one of them has been stripped of
all his cash and you might cop for a bargain. A loosely set schedule of boats
regularly ply routes connecting the inhabited islands. Villages hug the coast,
generally extending over the water, little ingress into the heavily forested mountainous
interiors has been made so far. 
Accommodation is sparse, the only formal lodging place is
Sunrise Guesthouse, at Tanjung Kumbi. With such infrequent tourism they survive
mainly on the takings from food and drinks served to the gamblers. I’m sure
they cut a commission from each game too. At £2.80 a night you can’t grumble
about their prices. I know there is good coral in the vicinity, but without a
boat I couldn’t discover the best of it. The coastline on Kumbi tends to be
rocky, but the initial seabed is sandy, making for good swimming, if not
perfect sunbathing. Caste your eyes out to sea and the line demarking the reef
crest is clear to see, it often comes very close to shore. The quality for
snorkelling is unknown, the little I explored wasn’t brilliant. It’s been
heavily damaged by dynamite and cyanide fishing. Prison sentences are stiff
now, so hopefully those practices are a thing of the past. There are promising
signs of new coral growth, though the presence of enormous crown of thorns
starfish isn’t a good sign. I only wish I had the tools to dispose of them,
they’re a bit prickly to tackle with bare hands. 
From my brief excursions around the main island of Natuna,
beaches initially appeared quite scarce. But it was only poor observation on my
behalf, often they aren’t apparent from the road. Beautiful sandy beaches
fringe extended strips of coast, all you have to do is take a closer look. The
coast is lined with groves of swaying coconut palms, stop almost anywhere and
make your way to the water’s edge, if you’re not standing on a nice beach
there’ll be one in sight. Tourist infrastructure in non-existent, so while the
beaches are plentiful, the chance to stay on one is severely limited. I had a
mind to set up camp on one, slinging my hammock between a couple of palms.
No-one would complain, but I hate to admit that security of your possessions
could be an issue if left unattended. The vast majority of people are
completely trustworthy, but a common attitude that Bulet, foreigners, can
afford whatever they wish leaves us open targets. It’s a common situation
throughout Indonesia, I’ve been exposed to it too many times, and it’s getting
worse in my opinion. To deprive a foreigner of their possessions or money is
alright, they can afford it after all! 
Top of my list for local sights is Pulau Senoa. Only three
kilometres from Raini is a dock sign posted for the island, it’s only
thirty-minutes offshore. Now, this is a paradise island. A crescent of
beautiful white sand curves round the leeward side, while the interior is dense
forest. A fringing reef forms a tranquil lagoon, yet outcrops of coral can be
found aplenty within its protective arms. In calm weather the scope for
snorkelling increases phenomenally. Water clarity is superb, and the
temperature is cool enough to refresh yet warm enough to linger, as long as you
wish. The widest stretch of beach is a turtle nesting site, an overnight visit
at the right time of year might well reward you with the spectacle of a turtle
laying its eggs, or even better, the eggs hatching and making their way to the safety
of the open sea. Whilst a wooden hut stands proud on a rocky peninsular no-one
lives there, the island is deserted. If you’re lucky, once the pom-pom drops
you off, you’ll have the whole place to yourself, your own private paradise.
I was actually offered an underhand deal to procure a long
lease on this island, I must admit I was tempted. It’s a conservation area, it
would be nice to have someone there to actually conserve it.
I’m amazed these islands haven’t been exploited for tourism
yet. Revenue is generated by the offshore gas and oil, but I’m sure little of
that finds it’s way into local coffers. Agriculture consists mainly of coconuts
and peanuts, it’s not extensive though, which leaves fishing as the main
industry. While the local waters are meant to be rich with marine life the
fishermen complain of difficulties selling their produce. The catch exceeds local
demands, and export is only dreamed of. Despite this, poverty isn’t obvious. A
dribble of domestic tourists come from Jakarta and Batam, but not enough to
boost the local economy significantly. I’d say the island’s locals are more
reserved than elsewhere in Indonesia, not cold or unfriendly, just not as
outgoing. Maybe it’s unfair to relate to most as locals, of the people I’ve met,
most are incomers. Sumatra is a popular source of migrants, encouraged by
government funding many have relocated here. 
So is this the tropical paradise I came looking for? It
certainly has what it takes, but little is utilised to best effect. Public
transport is unheard of, the only feasible way to get around is by hiring a
vehicle. Cars rental is prohibitively expensive, though bikes are reasonable,
bank on paying about £5 per day. If you want guesthouses situated on
gobsmacking beaches forget it, the beaches are waiting for you, but you’d have
to rough it. There’s nothing old-world about the place, the main island is little
developed but modern. The islands on the west coast are more traditional,
stilted houses line rickety boardwalks extending out to sea. They’re
picturesque, generally well-maintained and spacious, hovels are few and far
between. It’s refreshing for people to take interest in you as a person, rather
than a cash dispenser. I’ve been taken plenty of places with no thought for
financial reward. It isn’t the easiest place on earth to get to, if it was all
and sundry would have set up shop here already. Without doubt these islands are
worth exploring. There is a lot to see, if you’re prepared to make the effort.
I’ve barely scratched the surface! (Photo: More beach to keep you happy, in calmer weather the point promises very good snorkelling - Pulau Senua, off Natuna Besar)
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